Food: May 2008 Archives

Another one bites the dust.

Florent, a French bistro in a diner in what was once the meat-packing district is closing its doors June 29. There was an oral history of sorts in the NYTimes this Wed to bid Florent "Au Revoir".

Florent was open 24/7 which was a plus in the clubbing days but more recently it was also a good place to go when, arriving in New York from LA around midnight, I wanted to have dinner and the whole Upper East Side was shut down.

Actually, one funny visit occured last year when we arrived in the City around 11, and my daughter was starving -- every place was closed so we hit upon going to Florent -- where despite it being midnight and some of the pre- and non breeders gave us the hairy the staff treated her with delight, serving pasta, french bread and a glass of milk.

One day hence, somehow will be talking about the Florent that was, or she will read about in a book, and say, "My parents took me there when I was a child."

Saturday night found all of us wandering around Frenchmen Street, visiting the clubs there, from the Dragon's Den where a combo of guy on mac, guy on drums and guy on turntable jammed together.

Over at the Blue Nile there was a great band called Toubab Krewe -- a bunch of white guys playing exotic African instruments -- it was sort of the David Byrne / Talking Heads / Fela Kuti influenced "remain in light" sound taken to a trance level.





Sunday I worked in one more outrageous meal at Commander's Palace. Commander's reopned after 18 months with a multi-million dollar renovation to make it look like it always did --  Easter brunch year round. the Blood marys were reportedly excellent, I had perhaps the best cosmopolitan I've had in New Orleans, I had an incredible chicken and andouille sausage soup, --the famous turtle soup was terrific, the eggs sardou remain true to classic, but a steak and eggs was off the charts --- but all is prelude to the bread pudding. Such was a perfect ending to a classic meal.

PS. Harry Shearer and Judith Owen were at the next table

A couple of quick food notes:

John Besh (August) new restaurant Luke (with an umlaut over the u) is an Alsatian French restaurant where I had the best raw oysters thus far in New Orleans -- with Ueglesich's no longer in business -- Lukes makes an impressive showing. The food was really good -- there was a fried oyster and lardons salad with a green goddess type dressing and an onion tart --we ordered another round they were so good their choucrote filled with various sausages and meats was the winner of the evening (The schnitzle was too heavy). They had redfish as well, but thus far the best redfish is at Vizard's

Last night we went to NOLA emeril's restaurant, which had now has three floors going and here's the thing: the appetizers were all excellent -- and roasted oysters were done escargot style and there was a duck confit pizza with an egg on it but the main courses were good but not exceptional.

The most caloric meal that I ever had -- and that I continue to have -- is at the famous Camellia Grill. Katrina closed the Camellia Grill for 18 months -- but The Camellia Grill is back -- as good as ever. 

Now you might wonder what is so special about the Camellia Grill, and what could one possibly eat there?

I'm glad you asked.

How about a Chili Cheese Omellette -- where the eggs are whipped to airy fluffly delight in a blender normally used for milk shakes.



Would you like a closer look at the omelette?


Or would like you to hear about the pecan waffles cooked on a special grill?

Or how about the pecan pie cooked on the grill and served a la mode?



And that's just my meal.... there are some awesome bacon cheeseburgers fully dressed (i.e., with the works) and club sandwiches and many other wonders to savor.

Kind of makes you want to head to New Orleans?